{"id":27106,"date":"2025-12-09T09:36:37","date_gmt":"2025-12-09T09:36:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/progression-dole.ch\/recits\/volshebnitsa-or-the-good-white-witches-of-kokshall-too\/"},"modified":"2025-12-09T09:36:37","modified_gmt":"2025-12-09T09:36:37","slug":"volshebnitsa-or-the-good-white-witches-of-kokshall-too","status":"publish","type":"recits","link":"https:\/\/progression-dole.ch\/en\/recits\/volshebnitsa-or-the-good-white-witches-of-kokshall-too\/","title":{"rendered":"“VOLSHEBNITSA” or the Good White Witches of Kokshall-Too"},"content":{"rendered":"

State of emergency declared in Kyrgyzstan, Central Asia…<\/strong><\/p>\n

“Kyrgyzstan launched a military operation on Thursday to free hostages held by suspected Islamist fighters. At the same time, the Kyrgyz presidency was preparing to decree the mobilization of reservists and impose a state of emergency in the south, where fighters have been holding four Japanese and a Kyrgyz general since Monday. Kyrgyz reinforcements were dispatched on Thursday to the insurgent-held area where air forces carried out a series of aerial bombardments, according to the Russian agency Interfax.” Journal Le Temps, August 27<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Comfortably seated on the plane and sipping a small Bordeaux, I happened to open my newspaper to “the right page”\u2014if you can call it that. This expedition to Kyrgyzstan certainly isn’t starting under the best auspices. “Islamist fighters, aerial bombardments”\u2014that’s not exactly the expedition I was expecting. No matter! Once in the mountains, we’ll have peace, I told myself, serene. Nothing will diminish my optimism today on this exploration trip deep into Kokshall-Too. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kokshall-Too, “Terra Incognita”<\/strong><\/p>\n

The opening of Central Asia’s mountain ranges to Western climbers has been one of the most exciting developments in contemporary mountaineering. Kyrgyzstan is becoming a Mecca for alpinism, offering very accessible alpine-style ascents as well as unexplored mountain ranges with dramatic, virgin peaks. <\/p>\n

The Tien Shan mountains connect the northern Karakoram to the Hindu Kush. This range stretches over 1,500 kilometers and crosses the Kyrgyzstan-China border. <\/p>\n

The Kokshall-Too range extends for 400 kilometers along this border. It is one of the last unexplored ranges of the Tien Shan. Peaks rise up to 5,982 meters (Dankov Peak), 17 peaks reach over 5,000 meters, and about 60 are between 4,000 and 5,000 meters. Most, including 11 over 5,000 meters, are virgin. <\/p>\n

The difference between the high plateau and the highest point is 1,800 meters. There are “Big Walls” such as the “Red Soldier” (Kizil Asker), whose wall rises 1,200 meters in one go. The various routes are ice\/snow, mixed, or rock. The rock is composed of red or gray granite and provides an ideal terrain for mountaineering. The climate is very severe, and even in summer, the temperature does not rise above 0\u00b0C. July, August, and September are the most stable periods weather-wise. This region is very isolated and rarely traveled. It is a boon for Western alpinists in search of “Terra Incognita.” <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

August 28, reunion with Vladimir over a bottle of Grappa<\/strong><\/p>\n

Arrived in Almaty (Kazakhstan) at nine o’clock local time. The weather is very heavy, the heat suffocating. “In the bus that will transfer us to Bishkek, we’re going to sweat like pigs in the sun,” I thought to myself. As we headed towards the vehicle, a malicious Kazakh blocked our access to the road where the bus was parked. Impossible to pass with our trolleys. Tensions quickly rose. <\/p>\n

“Why are you doing this?” our interpreter asked him.<\/p>\n

“To work,” he replied.<\/p>\n

“That way, they can’t roll with their trolley anymore, and they have to use porters to the bus.”<\/p>\n

We played along with this little game of good-natured rivalry. In the process, one of the porters managed to hook a bag strap into the bumper of a “Traban,” a symbol of the ex-USSR, passing by. Shouts, a fight… just another day in Central Asia. <\/p>\n

We reached Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. There, Vladimir Komissarov was waiting for us and celebrated our arrival with a bottle of Vodka. A big Grappa enthusiast, I offered him a bottle I bought in Gressoney in Val d’Aosta. He was delighted, and the party continued with even more gusto. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

An International Expedition<\/strong><\/p>\n

The team leader is Pat Littlejohn, 48, a veteran with thousands of first ascents, including the most recent, on Taweche 6545 meters in the Himalayas with Mick Fowler. A plethora of new routes and peaks in Pakistan, India, Nepal… Unwavering motivation, an inimitable style. <\/p>\n

Vladimir Kommisarov from Bishkek, geologist, guide, has climbed almost all the peaks of the former USSR.<\/p>\n

Alan Deliz\u00e9e, guide and photographer in Leysin, is on his third trip to Kyrgyzstan.<\/p>\n

The doctor, Jane Whitmore, is very familiar with the region. She had the chance to visit the great walls of Karavshin in the Pamir 3 years ago. A doctor with the National Health Service, she works in a clinic in Southport. <\/p>\n

The rest of the team consists of Richard Smith, a family man with two children, who has climbed extensively in the Mont Blanc massif. Jo da Silva, a seasoned traveler and climber, especially in Scotland, Ben Nevis, and Glencoe. Ingrid Crossland has done several expeditions, notably to Mera Peak, Island Peak, Khan Tengri, and works as a trek guide for various agencies. Alan Dunworth from Aberdeen, Scotland, and Chris Clark, manager of a waltz, foxtrot, quickstep, tango dance center. A great connoisseur of Zimbabwe. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

A sheep stirs in the truck cabin; in Kyrgyzstan, freeze-dried food doesn’t exist.<\/strong><\/p>\n

September 1<\/p>\n

Waking up at eight o’clock in the former Soviet “Issykul” hotel, we are about to embark on a long journey to Kokshall-Too. First stop: Naryn, in the south of the country, where we depart in an old Soviet army truck, a six-wheel-drive “Ural.” It’s the only vehicle capable of crossing the high plateaus in the middle of the steppe, off-road. The driver can deliberately adjust tire pressure while driving to benefit from low pressure in particularly soft terrain. We are heavily loaded, and it’s almost becoming a heavy expedition. On the roof of the “Ural,” our load bends the sheet metal, and we are forced to install a vertical wooden beam inside the cabin to reinforce the superstructure so that the load doesn’t collapse on our heads at the first pothole. <\/p>\n

It must be said that nothing is left to chance; our cargo consists of a complete yurt serving as the main tent for base camp, an ex-Soviet army kitchen tent, a half-forged barrel serving as a stove, a table for inside the yurt, two medium-sized gas cylinders, and four large cylinders, six wooden chests containing all kitchen utensils such as gas burners, saucepans, frying pans, teapot, dinnerware, a quantity of wood collected along the track, mainly electrical poles that did not withstand the strong winds sweeping these high plateaus. Along with that, there are axes, saws, shovels, a radio station, an eight-meter-high antenna, portable but very heavy radios, an additional kerosene tank installed at the back of the truck behind our seats (fuel used for the truck), twelve tents for base camp and five for advanced base camp, the personal and technical equipment of the climbers, a sheep stirring in the truck cabin (christened “Mary” by the whole team during the trip), boxes of food for a month, beer, about ten bottles of vodka, “arbouss” and “ko-on,” local varieties of watermelon and melon\u2014in Kyrgyzstan, freeze-dried food doesn’t exist. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kinda-pass opens the gates to Kokshall-Too<\/strong><\/p>\n

Three-thirty PM, we’ve just stopped in a village. Sasha, one of our porter-climber companions, suggests we grab a bite; there’s fresh fish here, he tells us. Almost all expedition members had food poisoning at the beginning of the trip, and a certain reluctance and lack of enthusiasm can be read on their pale faces. As we pull over to the side of the road, looking for fresh fish, the truck, or rather its cargo, takes down a power line with it. Shouts, noises, everyone in the village rushes towards the destroyed line. There are perplexed small children, women screaming in their beautiful flowery and colorful skirts, men negotiating with the driver. They clear the power lines while a busy shepherd under the hood of his car repairs his engine\u2014it seems to be the main activity in Central Asia\u2014while two sheep (Mary’s cousins?), stir in the trunk, waiting to be sold at the bazaar. <\/p>\n

After crossing the vast fertile plains of Kochkorka, we drive towards the first pass to cross: the Dollon Pass, located at over 3,000 meters, which provides access to the south of the country, the Naryn region. From there, we cross the Kassybell Pass, then, leaving the At-Bashi mountain range on the right, we head towards the Ak-Su region, then the Kinda-Pass, which opens the gates to Kokshall-Too. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Arrival at the foot of the Kotur Glacier (Ototash)<\/strong><\/p>\n

We arrive on a flat area at the foot of the Kotur Glacier (Ototash). Behind the moraine, the entire team is busy unloading the truck. The Russians set up the kitchen and the yurt while we take care of the camp tents. We familiarize ourselves with the place that will be our home base for a month. A relic from the previous expedition lies on the frozen ground: a small aluminum bowl. An English team led by Pat Littlejohn had indeed come last year to explore this basin, without much success. They encountered very bad conditions; snow fell continuously for a month, accumulating over a meter and a half at base camp. Completely blocked by snow and mud, this team had great difficulty extracting themselves from the high plateau with the trucks to return. <\/p>\n

We’re knocking on wood because for now the sky is royal blue and the ground is completely dry, hardened by the frost.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

September 5, early morning<\/p>\n

Pat heard an animal near the tent last night; it must have been a snow partridge. Our base camp is located at 4,000 meters altitude, and quite a few animals live in these lands. Small white, gray, and black birds often visit us. They are very bold and linger around the tents looking for breadcrumbs. Last year, the previous expedition found a sun-bleached skull of a Marco Polo sheep near the camp. This year again, Jane will make this extraordinary discovery during a trek. It is a large animal, resembling a mouflon, found on the high plateaus of Kyrgyzstan. It is coveted by hunters worldwide and is fortunately protected. The previous year\u2014Pat tells me\u2014an entire herd crossed the wide valley of the BC, moving from one ridge to another, very close to the camp, an absolutely impressive sight. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Exploration on the Chinese Border<\/strong><\/p>\n

September 7<\/p>\n

The night is starry. The weather is fine. The good white witches of Kokshall-Too are with us. We wake up to a landscape whitened by the night’s cold and painfully pull on our plastic shells, frozen stiff. This is the coldest moment, yet the camp slowly stirs to get coffee. Everyone gathers in the yurt.<\/p>\n

After breakfast, we eagerly load our bags, feeling the need for action. Everyone leaves with a huge bag for the advanced base camp. The wind blows a little, and it’s pleasantly cool. The trail is quite arduous, and the young Russian climbers Oleg and Slava go first for a carry. The journey is exhausting because it’s terribly monotonous; heavily loaded under a sun that quickly becomes scorching as the day progresses, we ascend the desperately flat Kotur Glacier (Ototash) for about fifteen kilometers. The last ones arrive at advanced base camp at four PM; distances are very deceiving. We prepare tea, set up tents, toilets, and kitchens. <\/p>\n

At five PM, a meeting for tomorrow’s program. Decisions are made: Pat, Richard, Jo, Vladimir, and Alan will go to Pik 5156 (Pik Obzhornazy) just above advanced base camp. I will go to the Chinese border at the back of the basin, to Pik 5140 (Pik Pyramida) with Oleg, Slava, Richard, Ingrid, and Jane. <\/p>\n

The ascent goes without too many problems despite a rather difficult acclimatization; however, the view beyond the border is magical. The Chinese massif is splendid and totally unexplored: all the peaks are virgin, superb granite spurs cut through these mountains, alternating with beautiful lines of snow and ice couloirs. A boon for the alpinist! <\/p>\n

I remain fixed on these ridges that cut the horizon, and my gaze finds itself imagining routes. After half an hour of daydreaming at the summit, I finally decide to descend and rejoin the team. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Will we find the tents? And in what condition? <\/strong><\/p>\n

It snowed all night at BC. The mass of snow weighed down the tents, and everyone had to fight during the night to avoid being submerged. At regular intervals, everyone woke up to push the snow-covered canvas. From time to time, a team decided to go out and clear the tent from the outside. In total, over thirty centimeters fell that night. The truck couldn’t even leave BC anymore. At dawn, the entire team huddled in the yurt around the comforting fire, the only island of comfort on this plateau swept by the steppe winds. It’s blowing very hard this morning and seeps through the yurt’s cracks. The temperature is very low. It’s a wind that nothing stops, that passes through your body and crushes your skull. The cook is busy in the kitchen tent providing us with the necessary calories to fight the cold. Breakfasts are hearty: “borscht,” doughnuts, leftover mutton from the day before, coffee, marmalade… We eat with appetite. <\/p>\n

The days pass slowly and are all alike: card games, games, reading, meals, naps. A bottle of vodka is always on the table for those who might need a little pick-me-up. The improvement in conditions is very slow, and we are starting to get restless. <\/p>\n

Today, Oleg, Slava, and Georges attempted to reach advanced base camp; they struggled to get there: hail, storms, and violent winds accompanied them. George had to borrow the mittens I had left at the tents so as not to freeze his extremities. The news is not very good. The wind was so violent that a tent blew away onto the glacier, scattering all the equipment inside. I dread to imagine the atmosphere up there. Will we find the tents? And in what condition? <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pik Judith-Brian: a virgin peak<\/strong><\/p>\n

After a week, we can finally rejoin ABC and rebuild the camp; the weather has cleared up, the atmosphere is good, and we discuss plans for the different teams.<\/p>\n

Jane, who fell ill, stayed at BC. Pat, Ingrid, and Jo want to explore a pass leading to Pik 5285, which seems to be a very technical peak. Vladimir, Oleg, and Slava are heading for a large ice face lower in the basin, while Richard and I are going for a promising ridge traverse up to Pik 5050. <\/p>\n

To reach the northeast ridge of Pik 5050, we have to climb an ice face that ends in a challenging cornice. The wall is blue ice, and our gear really struggles to get a purchase. Nevertheless, after a few pitches, we manage to reach the cornice, which eventually disintegrates under our repeated assaults. We gain the famous ridge, and once again, the view is sublime, revealing to the east the highest peak of the Kokshall-Too mountain range: Dankov Peak (5982 meters). In front of us, a long ridge stretches to the summit, broken by two steep gendarmes that seem impassable. On the ridge, the wind has formed unstable cornices, and we make slow progress. The trail is arduous; there’s still so much snow in the Tien Shan! It reaches our thighs, and progress is very slow. The heavy storms of the past few days haven’t helped. After long efforts, we reach the first gendarme, while the second seems so far away. We descend the other side onto good red granite, and then, once again, an endless ridge appears on the horizon. It’s ten o’clock, and the sun is beating down hard. Progress becomes increasingly difficult in the heavy snow and suffocating heat; there’s not a breath of wind. The second gendarme looks less favorable than the first. Unavoidable on this vertical granite with no weak points, we are forced to make a long rappel down a smooth wall to gain the ridge with no possibility of turning back. I watch Richard descend. Now the die is cast. We focus our remaining energy for the summit. Finally, at twenty past two in the afternoon, we reach Pik 5050, which we immediately name Pik Judith-Brian. <\/p>\n

<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Volshebnitsa (the good white witches)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pat, Jo, and Ingrid return at nightfall, exhausted and disheartened. They couldn’t even reach the main ridge of Pik 5285. The amount of snow was so dreadful that they only managed to reach the pass and returned utterly dejected. They collapse into their sleeping bags without another word. <\/p>\n

After two days, they decide to try Pik 5285 again. Taking advantage of the previous days’ work, they arrive early enough to tackle the very technical mixed section that leads to a particularly sharp “knife edge” ridge. In total, five pitches of delicate mixed climbing: slabs covered with thin layers of ice at seventy degrees, as well as gullies and couloirs, follow one another up to the main ridge. A very nerve-wracking climb without protection. The ascent continues along a gigantic cornice, and progress is made by traversing with ice axes along a slope of more than fifty-five degrees. It’s impossible to climb onto the ridge as it is so sharp. They reach the summit on September 10th in the late afternoon and name this peak “Volshebnitsa,” which in Russian means: the good white witches, those who brought us luck… <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

KOKSHALL-TOO, KYRGYZSTAN PRACTICAL INFORMATION<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Article<\/strong><\/p>\n

“VOLSHEBNITSA” or the good white witches of Kokshall-too)<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

Text: Alan Deliz\u00e9e<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

ACCESS<\/strong><\/p>\n

Austrian Airlines and Lufthansa, from all major European cities to Almaty<\/p>\n

From London: regular British Airways flights to Almaty<\/p>\n

From Geneva: regular Lufthansa or KLM flights to Almaty<\/p>\n

Holland Airlines from Amsterdam to Almaty<\/p>\n

Kyrgyzstan Airlines to Bishkek, from Delhi, Frankfurt, Hanover, Birmingham, Istanbul, Moscow <\/p>\n

Turkish Airlines, from Istanbul to Bishkek<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

From Almaty, transfer to Bishkek by bus (1 day). In Bishkek, overnight at a hotel before departure for Kokshall by all-terrain truck. The first day allows reaching Naryn via Koktchkorka and the Dollon Pass (3038 m). Then from Naryn to the Kin Da Pass (3400 m) which opens the gates to Kokshall. The truck allows ascending the Ak-Sai river to the foot of the Kotur glacier, base camp (3900 m). <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

FORMALITIES<\/strong><\/p>\n

A visa is required for Kyrgyzstan; it can be obtained at various embassies in Europe. There is no embassy in France, apply in Brussels, price FF 350. To obtain a visa, an invitation letter is required. For most of the country, a simple visa is sufficient; however, to access border areas bordering China, a special permit is required. If you stay more than 3 days in the country, remember to register with the police and registration department. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Embassy of the Kyrgyz Republic<\/p>\n

47, rue de l\u2019Abbaye<\/p>\n

B-1050 Brussels<\/p>\n

Tel: +32 2 640 18 68<\/p>\n

Fax: +32 2 640 01 31<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Embassy of the Kyrgyz Republic<\/p>\n

26, rue Maunoir<\/p>\n

CH-1207 Geneva<\/p>\n

Tel: +41 (0)22 707 97 20<\/p>\n

Fax: +41 (0)22 707 92 21<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

POPULATION<\/strong><\/p>\n

In 1996, 4.47 million inhabitants, 64.4% in rural areas and 35.6% in cities. Women make up 50.75% of the population, 44% are younger than 20, and 8% are older than 60. <\/p>\n

52.5% are Kyrgyz, 19.6% Russian, 13.1% Uzbek, 2.5% Ukrainian, 1.8% German, 1.6% Tatar, 0.9% Uyghur, 0.9% Dungan, 0.8% Tajik.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

CLIMATE<\/strong><\/p>\n

The climate ranges from continental to almost maritime (Issyk-Kul lake region). Winters are cold, especially in mountainous regions. The maximum temperature is +44\u00b0C (Chuiskaya station), the minimum is -54\u00b0C (Ak-Sai station). The maximum annual precipitation is found in the Ferghana region (1090 mm), and the lowest in Karakol (144 mm). <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

GEOGRAPHY<\/strong><\/p>\n

The country’s surface area is 198,000 km\u00b2, stretching 900 km from east to west and 425 km from north to south. The northern part is at the same latitude as Rome. Kyrgyzstan’s borders generally follow natural boundaries such as rivers and mountain ranges of China, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan. It features alpine and sub-alpine vegetation, steppe areas, and large forests typical of Tien-Shan firs. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

WEATHER, PERIOD<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the Tien Shan, it is customary to say that it snows all the time. However, periods of good weather can follow relatively long periods of bad weather. Summer, which lasts from July to September, is quite short; in Kokshall, the average temperature is 0\u00b0C. This is the best period for mountaineering and the only possibility of access by all-terrain truck. Be aware, however, of sudden snowfalls that can block you for several weeks on the high plateaus. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

INSURANCE<\/strong><\/p>\n

For a visit to Kyrgyzstan, we recommend having good accident and repatriation insurance. Without payment guarantees, rescue companies will not be able to organize a rescue operation. Furthermore, some areas of Kyrgyzstan are forbidden to visitors without insurance. It is therefore important to carry a copy of your policy with you. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

RESCUE<\/strong><\/p>\n

RTM Tien Shan Ltd organizes rescue, search, and transport operations in mountainous regions. It provides medical services during and after rescue operations, as well as assistance and repatriation formalities in urgent cases. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

PROPOSED ROUTES<\/strong><\/p>\n

The possibilities are numerous because the Kokshall-Too mountain range stretches for nearly 400 km along the Chinese border. It is possible to access various basins and set up base camp at the foot of glaciers that flow perpendicularly to the border line. The Dankov Peak region (5982 m), to the east of the range, offers beautiful classic ascents, while the Kotur and Kamarova glacier region offers more technical but shorter ascents, similar to those found in our Alps. For example, Pik Judith-Brian (5050 m), a northeast ridge AD snow and rock (on beautiful red granite) or Volshebnitsa (5285 m), the N mixed ridge D+, quite technical with ice sections up to 70\u00b0 (10 pitches from the pass). For lovers of classic N faces, we recommend the Trezubets range, whose faces are in good condition in summer. <\/p>\n

The Mauvkina glacier basin is completely unexplored and allows for beautiful virgin 5000m peaks. Behind the Kotur pass, in Chinese territory, there are also many opportunities for virgin summits. <\/p>\n

For “Big Wall” enthusiasts, the ascent of Kizil Asker (“the Red Soldier,” 5842 m) remains a very beautiful objective. More and more mountaineers from all over the world are now coming to tackle its smooth and aesthetic face. <\/p>\n

(photocopies of route descriptions)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

WHO TO GO WITH?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Alan Deliz\u00e9e<\/p>\n

Tel: 0041 79 457 23 57<\/p>\n

www.progression-dole.ch<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

LOCAL CONTACT<\/strong><\/p>\n

ITMC Tien-Shan<\/p>\n

1-A Molodaia Gvardia Street<\/p>\n

Bishkek 720010, Kyrgyz Republic<\/p>\n

+996 312 651221,651404<\/p>\n

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